What Union Jack Fashion Says About Today’s Youth
As far as recognisable symbols go, the Union Jack is one of Great Britain’s most notable. Anyone who’s been to a souvenir shop in the UK will have seen it plastered garishly across mugs, teddy bears and general memorabilia, while those who fancy dressing as a walking advert for the monarchy can style themselves in clothes covered in the motif. While this isn’t an ordinary sight in everyday life, it’s becoming increasingly more common on Tik Tok.
Search ‘Union Jack fashion’ on the app and you’ll be inundated with styling and OOTD videos where the famed flag is always the star piece – the #unionjack has over 20 million views alone. Bea Sandri (aka. baetriche on Tik Tok) is one of those users, having posted a video dubbed with the Skins theme tune of her in a Union Jack tank, styled with a pair of jeans (also stamped with the flag) while holding a noughties camcorder.
“My main style inspiration right now is mid 2010’s. I know it sounds absurd to consider that era nostalgic, but at the pace trends are being recycled, 2014 already feels vintage to me,” she tells Polyester Zine. “I've always loved the tumblr grunge aesthetic, and I'd say it will always be an early influence to me and my style.” She’s not alone in feeling sentimental about the print. @brianna commented “Help… that was definitely me. I had Union Jack bed sheets in 2014 😭” on @addis’ ‘Styling My Union Jack Tank’ video, while a comment on @miffz’s video reads “omg I defo had that top!!!!! Nostalgia”.
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As is the way with every trend, there are people that absolutely despise it – such as @monke, who included the Union Jack in her ‘Old trends I hate with my whole soul’ video, while another comment goes as far as dubbing it ‘Coloniser Core’. It’s this troubling history that separates it from other futile clothing fads. As a signifier of the nation, it has always been divisive; with one side holding it as a patriotic emblem while others see it as a reminder of Britain’s colonial past and a symbol of racial inequality. There’s a long history between far-right groups adopting the Union Jack and St George flags, which has only perpetuated the symbols uneasy connotations, especially in the wake of post-Brexit Britain. And this is not ignored by those choosing to wear it as a fashion statement. @jadehatessyou posted a video captioned “Sunny so the Union Jack Flags are out in a cool & sxc way not actually supporting GB ofc loool”, and @g commented on @xnintendhoe’s video “got a funky union jack tee at a chazza shop & my boyfriend called it a brexit top – seeing this has inspired me to wear it 💃🏽”. Despite clearly being aware of the colonialist and fascist connotations of the flag, the younger generation are proudly donning it as a nostalgic piece that narrowly escapes the Y2K aesthetic. As the UK has officially left the EU, as it plans to send migrants to Rwanda and with British institutions like the monarchy and Scotland Yard being questioned more than ever, can we safely wear the symbol while ignoring its nuances?
“In light of its popularity on social media, it seems that the younger generation are able to compartmentalise the symbol’s problematic undertones.”
It is worth noting that while the Union Jack can have people cringing when it’s hanging from a flagpole, within fashion, nostalgia has made it a sartorial memento. Geri Halliwell famously wore a mini dress emblazoned with it during the Spice Girls 1997 Brit Awards performance, which over 20 years on is still being appreciated as a piece of fashion history – especially on Tik Tok, where countless videos reference the pop group as inspiration behind their outfit. Pete Townsend from The Who was the first to make the print a stand-out garment, while in recent years, Dua Lipa and Stormzy have both worn iterations of the print while performing. Most recently, Kate Moss was spotted during the Queen’s Jubilee parade sporting a vintage John Galliano blazer that the model first wore while walking the runway of his Spring ‘93 show. It’s also being featured within luxury fashion. For Spring/Summer ‘22, British-label Stefan Cooke proudly showcased a jumper with the motif alongside Baker boy hats and rugby shirts. The burgeoning question of its meaning was just as prevalent at the time of the show as it is now, as Vogue Runway’s Sarah Mower pointed out in her review; “Their brash Union Jack flag sweater might call up affectionate childhood memories of Geri Halliwell of the Spice Girls wearing her Union Jack mini dress in 1997 – a mass tabloid pop culture moment if ever there was one. But in post-Brexit Britain, the flag is chiefly being used as a cipher for right-wing populism, and that’s more divisive in 2021.” It’s now available to buy at London-born retailer Browns, and their Menswear Buyer for New Gen and Performance, Joe Brunner notes its nuance. “The motif is steeped in so much sartorial history, and can reference so much beyond patriotism, like the ‘Cool Britannia’ wave, youth culture and the punk rock movement.” Further adding, “we’re seeing the Union Jack make a comeback with this Stefan Cooke number being a key look on the runway. We think it’ll resonate well with our customer; it’s a great statement piece.”
But can the burdening connotations really be separated from it? In Joe’s opinion, wearing it can positively do more than that. “It is undoubtedly still a divisive print, especially in light of its recent use in politics, be this Brexit or Far Right organisations, but we’re noticing a slight shift in its connotations now. Instead of nationalism and the establishment, fashion brands and young talent are trying to reshape what it signifies today. We're seeing an almost re-appropriation of the print, linked back to the ‘Cool Britannia’ days of the 90s – where if anything, it stood for anti-authority, subversion and pride. Wearing the print tends to come with some serious intention; there’s usually a hefty message attached to its appearance, as shown by Stormzy speaking of a divided nation, or Dua who presented a new version of Britishness, celebrating youth and our homegrown talent, albeit with a sense of irony, too. It’s definitely a print that pushes buttons, and its symbolism heavily relies on the context around it.”
In light of its popularity on social media, it seems that the younger generation are able to compartmentalise the symbol’s problematic undertones. What’s clear is that those pieces are adding a playfulness to dressing; styling a popular performance motif adds a sense of costume to your everyday ensemble. And with the cost of living, ongoing pandemic and environmental crisis making the world a demoralising place to be, it’s hardly a surprise that many are trying to focus on the lighthearted side of its symbolism.
Words: Carmen Bellot
