Normcore Is Over For Menswear (Finally)

Ximon Lee presented by GQ China London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017
Ximon Lee presented by GQ China London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017

The menswear fashion month just opened a few days ago in London and after years of sleep, menswear designers seem to have finally pulled away from the “normcore” (word used to make laziness sound like a statement) trend and served something worth seeing and reporting.

First stop is Ximon Lee, which is probably the most “in control” looking collection, amongst all the young blood showing in London, Europe. Slits are running up every garments, whether it’s a top or a bottom. Somehow, you would never see so many slits showing so little skin, which is perfect to be the sexiest choir boy on the block.

Ximon Lee presented by GQ China London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017
Ximon Lee presented by GQ China London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017
XIMONLEE-Meanswear-Fall-Winter-2017
XIMONLEE-Meanswear-Fall-Winter-2017

Yet, this choir boy would be named “Perversion” as he’s rocking all sorts of harnesses in some very couture versions : green glossy leather or gems embroidered, anything goes for the S&M disco queens !

You’ll remain decently spiritual thanks to Ximon Lee’s huge scarves nonchalantly thrown upon the shoulder to get a taste of how it feels to be the Dalai Lama on tour.

At last but not least coming down Ximon’s catwalk are some prints and jacquards, that is kind of camouflage on acid that would be perfect towalk around Jackson Pollock’s atelier incognito.

JW Anderson London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 - January 2017
JW Anderson London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 – January 2017

Dragging my old self to J.W Anderson’s show. If you’re a designer in the making, this collection will be the proof that you don’t need to kill your granny like she deserves… Indeed, you might as well enslave her so she produces tons of colourful crocheted doilies as seen on some of Jonathan’s scarves, coats and sweaters.

Then, if she hasn’t crocheted herself to death, keep milking and get her to knit a whole range of massive jumpers and scarves. J.W guarantees they’re perfectto mop the floor of your 9sqm student room without even bending over.

Been a while since you’ve last been on your all fourth ? J.W thought of you as well with jeans that are nicely padded and quilted around the knees… subtle.

JW Anderson London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 - January 2017
JW Anderson London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 – January 2017

Moving onto Agi & Sam. The two designers offer a wardrobe that’s mainly red andblack, just in case you were missing your Emo years (yours, not mine.) The models walking down the runway have their mouths covered with scarvesto keep them from saying some grotesque lies such as “Theresa May is cool.” or “Trump’s hair is real.”

Agi_Sam_The_Woolmark_Company London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017
Agi_Sam_The_Woolmark_Company London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017

At Agi & Sam, punk might not be dead, but it’s definitely grown up as some of the textiles mainly used for coats and suits are shredded in  very neat ways. Either “Attacked by a horde of kittens kind of shredded or “I do spa days wearing my suit in the washing machine.” kinda shredded. Pick your favourite!

London’s men’s week is most definitely worth checking out beyond the designers I mentioned above. I’ll be drinking blood with the Pope until Milan’s week starts.

Agi_Sam_The_Woolmark_Company London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017
Agi_Sam_The_Woolmark_Company London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017
Agi_Sam_The_Woolmark_Company London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017
Agi_Sam_The_Woolmark_Company London Menswear Fall Winter 2017 January 2017

Words: Boris Tea

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