Fyodor Golan SS16 Show Report

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What do you get when you marry the inspirations of transformers, rave, space, hippies and geishas with sexuality, pop, childhood and nature? I couldn’t guess either, but think badass futuristic babes baring lots of skin, clad in plastic, chiffon, and ruffles, all whilst taking cues from Princess Ardala.

Channeling retro futurism – but not quite in the spirit of the 60s – Fyodor Golan’s army of girls arrived from a solar storm to take us on a trippy journey into the future, via a runway scented by roses. Stomping in a trance to a tech-infused playlist in stacked wooden neon platforms by Kat Maconie and boxy, robotic-like silhouettes, (think Rachael in Blade Runner’s shoulder pads), these girls brought a fearless female spirit to the floor, and proved they’re a force not to be reckoned with.

Textured metallic gold eyes that put Warhol’s superstars to shame, and pastel geometric acrylic nails tied the looks together; along with gigantic dangling neon earrings on a select few, who walked with their vision half obscured by a slick grungy side parting.

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In a similar vein to their AW15 offering – where the mavericks bagged a highly sought after collab with My Little Pony – this season the collection came in the wake of a new partnership: this time with Transformers. The duo were granted rare access into never before seen archives of hand drawn illustrations of robots dating back to 1984, which proved to unearth a pot of gold holding bold and soft colour combinations and unexpected geometric shapes, waiting to be manipulated and reworked. We see the artwork remodelled into cut out patterns that create warped motifs and reworked illustrations finished with a slick of silicon.

The collection boasts one big juxtaposition and contrast of ideas: hard shoulders and soft hems, guns and hippies, modernism and anti-modernism – it blends a spectrum of nostalgia, the present and the future. There is a sure nod to the 80s with a kaleidoscopic explosion of graphics and metallics, yet it is equally rife with a mashup of cultural references ranging from Japan to cowboys that stem from the designers love for travel.

On the surface, the offering comes in true Fyodor Golan style: paint box hues and striking colour combinations. With no vacuum packed robo-warriors in sight, the collection might not scream space age in a Barabella fashion, but this season these girls were here with a definite purpose to treat us to a glimpse of what the future might hold. In their deconstructed and transparent outfits, these girls are making their own rules and creating their own definitions as to what it means to wear futuristic fashion.

Report by Josephine Platt 

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