The month of June is fashion season (but isn’t the entire year?) and alongside the best and the worst of established designers come the graduates.
So, being an adventurous reporter, I flew to Belgium to cover the show at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp. Its corridors were once graced by some of the most influential designers of our time such as Martin Margiela & Dries Van Noten. For this reason, it would have been a sin not to take a look at what this fashion factory is cooking.
The show did not disappoint.
Alongside the monstrosities one often finds at a graduate show, we spotted out some more refined birds of paradise that made us want to spend all that money we don’t have.
Noa Kapchitz casts a spell and takes us to a world inhabited by witches in crocodile armour, powerfully sexy satin tops and exquisite pony skin trousers amongst other wonders. A wardrobe to lead the underworld.
I fly my broom to Timo Zundorf’s collection. A land where punk culture and 19th century tailoring collide in the most unexpected way. Waterfalls of intricate knits, glimmering trousers dripping all over your student loan and brilliantly twisted tailored pieces with just the right amount of gay pornography splashed across it.
Next stop: Shone Puipia. I see felted sheepskin embroidered with ostrich feathers, pristine white blouses with strips of eelskin coating…we covet it all. It’s a zoo, it’s a feast, it’s a barbecue on Mount Olympus.
300 kilometres south is not Miami, but Paris.
I take a tour where the tradition of couture is kept and frozen since the dawn of fashion design schools: L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.
Yet, one cutie stole the show. William Gonzalez broke the mould of ice to deliver a sleek, precise and highly desirable collection. Fur falling off the shoulders, flared trousers that would give legs for days to a toddler and architectural jackets to open a business outside the Solar System.
To make a long story short, this year students will still be broke but will make you look indecently wealthy and remarkable. As they made the dress and the carriage; let them eat pumpkin as Cinderella’s godmother did.
Words by Boris Tea.